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SS 2018

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AltaRoma Alta Moda SS 2018, Sabrina Persechino

ƞλεκτρον 
Elektron “the amber road”

The spring/summer 18 collection travels through the “amber road”, once known as  Imperial route, the place where they used to extract  the stone that Ancient Greek called elektron, meaning “the shining, the brightening” considering it “the substance of sun”. This strange stone, transparent, combustible, very light, warm at touch, bright yellow, became the centre of interest not only for merchants and scientists, but also related to the world of art, poetry and literature.

Omero narrates that amber grains were on Penelope’s necklace, while Sofocle creates the “myth of Melagro” where pearls of amber were the tears poured by the sisters of Melagro for his death. And they again became pearls of amber, the tears of the Eliads, sisters of Fetonte, who ran on the banks of the Eridan river when the wagon fell. In 600 a.c Thales from Mileto discovered that amber had the property to electrify itself when rubbed. Electricity takes its name from the Greek name of the amber stone : Hλεκτρον,Elektron. The amber stone is the fossilization and solidification during time, of the resin emanated from the Araucariaceae and Pinales:  family of conifers that are characteristic from the forests of the Baltic area, where the “amber road” has its origins.

It’s translucid, the color variates from yellow, to reddish, dark brown til green. To these colors, from gold to reseda green and ultra violet and the arboreal shapes of the Araucariaceae and Pinales are the outfits of Sabrina Persechino inspired; linear and geometric, with a strong architectural sign as usual, yet of extreme elegance and sensuality. The black and the white, certain in the color palette. Always present in the collection, in the day outfits, the coats that  “makes the outfit” and substitute the dress ,  and the overalls, essentials but of  incisive impact, in addition to cocktail dresses and  grande soirée gowns.

Rigorous, of evident refinement and formal balance , the simplicity of composition is not a mere aesthetic matter, but also perceptive: rafia and silk for the white fabrics, silk web and metal for gold, silk piquet whose weft emulates the Baltic conifers for the reseda green, cady and leather for the ultra-violet, lasered organza for the black, enhance the garments in their tactile sensation. 

 

Inspiration: Amber road
Lenght: everthing
Sizes: slim to enhance feminine shapes creating original volumes
Colors: white, pearl grey, purple, bright green, burgundy, black
Fabrics:raffia, silk, piquet, cady, leather

FW 2017-18

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AltaRoma Haute Couture FW 2017-18, Sabrina Persechino 

The new haute couture fall/winter collection 2017-18 by Sabrina Persechino tries happily to emulate rewinding of a tape or repetition of waves in a perpetual motion

The same crest that defines the profile of water and marks time, the so called  "period" of  waves that follow to disappear at the horizon. And yet re-wind, replaying wind and oscillations that hit bodies it meets blowing.

Waves, such as distortion of space and time, a sinuous trend that draws contemporary architectural prospects, such as Curved Buildings at Galaxy Soho, designed by Zaha Hadid.

It's water movements to inspire Sabrina Persechino in this collection that interprets and describes waves’s propagation physical phenomenon, translating it into dresses through colors and shapes, and so to circular waves, whose wavelength is a circumference and propagate in concentric circles around the source, are inspired sea-water color clothes with leather and graphite wires to emphasize the nude shoulders and backs silk free but with large wavy sleeves for the overcoat; at flat waves, with wavefront described by straight line, the same produced in water by a vibrant lamina, is the inspiration ocher’s dresses with straight and parallel folds; to spherical waves, that propagate uniformly in space in every directions and which the shape of wavefront is a sphere, are inspired the velvet and silk blacks dresses; such as the sun’s reflection on moving water are inspired the bronze’s brilliant pailletes and gabardine wool outfit leather’s finishings.  

The result is a sinuous propagation that emphasize female’s silhouette with soft and delicate movements for a sober and elegant collection that privileges garments’ s wearability.

Ph: S. Dragone / Luca Sorrentino

 

SS 2017

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AltaRoma Haute Couture SS 2017, Sabrina Persechino

Jaali: is a perforated stone, like a grid, usually carved with ornamental motifs made through the use of calligraphy and geometry.  A grid allowing the vision in one direction, in addition to the passage of light and air, fundamental In Islamic societies to preserve the family intimacy, allowing to watch outside, preventing anyone to look inside.

A sort of modern brise-soleil often used in contemporary architecture to create an effect of dematerialization of the shell. An element of separation between inside and outside that assumes the role of filter, like e diaphragm, able to dose and modify the passage of light depending on external environments, and the incidence of the sun's rays

And just by filtering the light, the garments, such as buildings, assume a different aspect, constantly changing its image accentuating the feeling of mobility and speed.

The carving of the stone to create the Jaali is interpreted by Sabrina Persechino by creating the geometrical macrame that becomes an element of strength and transparency in white clothes with linear and clean shapes. A gnarled weave on squared base designing an ornamental grid that allows to peek at silhouettes emphasizing femininity.

From the game of refraction and the deviation of the wave light in the passage through the Jaali comes the fabric filigree gold. A tangle of thin resin wires twisted to create an elegant openwork effect.

The cut on the olive coloured leathers, creates intarsias and cracks, slits of light and perfect geometries on rationalists prospects of extreme wearability.

Gold is entrusted with the task of leitmotif of the collection: the binding element and connection between all the other fabrics in black and sand silk piqué whose amplitudes emulate the Libyan Suriyah.

The color palette is influenced by Arab architecture and colors from the desert. Unfailing black, featuring Sabrina Persechino, and the gold, two-toned, unites and animates the daytime, cocktails and great soirée outfits.

Ph: S. Dragone - G. Palma / Luca Sorrentino

SS 2016

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AltaRoma Haute Couture SS 2016 Rome, Sabrina Persechino 

The new SS16 Haute Couture collection of Sabrina Persechino, titled ‘Arachne’ a reference to the Greek myth of a young seamstress that challenges the Goddess of weaving. Persechino is known for her architectural approach to fashion (the courtier is a trained architect), she assembles, constructs and creates modern and avant-garde forms and silhouettes.

Inspired by the works of architect Eric Owen Moss, which appear to be casually interconnected like cobwebs, Sabrina Persechino created a line composed of casual cuts and symmetric lines which call to mind the sides and angles of a frame.

The linearity and simple geometry is rooted in the myth of Aranche, the seamstress who was transformed into a spider by Athena (the Greek goddess of the arts). The presence of the peplum, a Greek fashion element, is in keeping with the source of inspiration.

Persechino uses touches of golds and lunar shades, to create an ephemeral effect like that of dew on cobwebs or settled moss on building facades. The defining elements of the collection are the use of leather and metal strips on white surfaces, simple structures and cuts, strong lines (wide necklines, defined bustier) a resistance to transparency, contrasting blacks. As for fabrics, the courtier chose cut silk, cady, sheer crepon and satin. The color pallet of powder pink, white and black, cobalt and gray pearl, was similarly influenced by architecture.

Ph: Salvatore Dragone-Gianluca Palma/Luca Sorrentino

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